Hampstead Spirit of Place

 
 

 

Musicians, actors, raconteurs, playwrights, scholars, artists

Drawn to the wells, wild heathlands, pubs, clubs, coffee houses

Plaques on almost every street; black, green, blue & white

They stare at each other, greeting in a proud celebration

‘George du Maurier lived here, 1874 to 1895’, born in France

Cartoonist and novelist; Punch said, ‘very good in parts’

Open heathland and forest, a step away from the compact village streets
 

Chalybeate Well, Well Walk

On the 20th December 1698 the infant Earl of Gainsborough and his guardian and mother, the Countess of Gainsborough gave six acres of land in the region of the Chalybeate Well, to be used to benefit the poor of Hampstead. The deed that transferred the land refers to “the Wells lately made there for medicinal waters”.Bottled at the Flask Pub, Flask Walk. Rivalled Tunbridge Wells.  https://alondoninheritance.com/under-london/chalybeate-well-hampstead/

 

George DuMaurier lived here


‘Robert Louis Stevenson, 1850 – 1894’, a fine storyteller-poet

His grand house, perched in Mount Vernon, Hampstead

Roaming; Kidnapped, here briefly in London literary circles.

A start in Edinburgh, Bournemouth, Paris, to end in Samoa

Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde and A Child’s Garden of Verses

Horror and innocence, minds changing, passing through

Robert Louis Stevenson lived here.  But very, very briefly.

Mount Vernon.  Nearby, the more modest abode of  RL Stevenson

 

There was Eric Blair, George Orwell, not Cleese’s Eric The Fish,

The Meaning of Life. Amazing Monty Python, started in 1969

At the Light of Kashmir; Chapman, Cleese, Idle, Jones & Gilliam

Orwell touched down, 1934, in Warwick Mansions, Pond Street

Flew off to Spain, to fight in the civil war, Homage to Catalonia

A 1920’s Indian policeman, in 1948 he wrote to us all, the dystopian 1984 

Warwick Mansions, Pond Street.  Orwell stayed here in 1930s

Next Door to Warwick Mansions

 

Keats, high on laudanum, apothecary, physician, surgeon, Guys Hospital

Instead became a poet at age 21, said, ‘Beauty is truth, truth beauty’

Under a plum tree in, now Keats House, he wrote Ode to a Nightingale

Tubercular, pale, off to Rome with Joseph Severn, died in 1821 at only 25

Here; Sigmund Freud, Anna Freuds’ nursery, Walter Gropius, Marie Stopes,

Fry and Laurie, Liz Taylor, George Michael, Peter Cook and so many more

 

Snowdrops in the plum tree garden of Keats House

 

Keats House (formerly Wentworth Place) and Garden

 

Paul Robeson, American actor, singer, Show Boat, 1928, another plaque 

And in the early 1930s, looking up from his house to Whitestone Pond

John Constable painted Judge’s Walk, the close high Elysium, in the 1820s 

In the 19th century judges walked here, escaping Londons’ soot & grime

Below and beyond this highest London Pond, the city glittering in the dusk

On down the hill, everywhere, more labyrinthine passageways & squares

 

 Paul Robeson could look up the steep slope to Judges Walk & Whitestone Pond

 

 

 
 
A line of ancient trees still here, once painted by John Constable in 1820s
 
 
 

Secret passageways

New End Primary School, towering over alleyways

 

Christchurch, clinging to the steep hillside, bells ringing in the darkness

I walk along this path through life; nursery, school, vicarage, prayers, the end

Close by, the stark 1850s New Court, built for the servants to the wealthy

No plaque for the Sex Pistols at No. 39, a squat in the late 70s

No water, no light, cold, damp, ‘Hell on earth,’ said Johnny Rotten.

Sid Vicious, they say, carved his memorial there into the brick

Christchurch

Christchurch Nursery School. Christchurch Vicarage

New Buildings, 1870s, flats for the servants. New Court walkups

Sid Vicious was here at No. 39


York Stone mazes, cobbled streets, high walls, crooked shadows

Alleyways of Hampstead Village, crazed cottage chimneys

Bright, lit-up doors and windows, startling floodlights, watching

Canopies of flowers beckon friends at the Quaker House sanctuary

A wreath from Covid times used to hang on the door of the Hollybush Pub

And a note, ‘good health to you in these strange times.’  Strange days still.

The Quaker Meeting House.  And along this road to Christchurch

 

Sir Henry Cole, cheering on Elm Row, 1879 – 1880’ grew the 1d post

Letters, so you’d always be in my memory, a card sent for every Christmas

In the Vale of Health, poet Tagore, 1912; Hemingway, in World War II

There’s a plaque to a boy 5 to 8 yrs old, Lord Northcliffe, 1870 – 1873, 

Cycling news, popular campaigner, began Daily Mail 1896 & Mirror in 1903

And look!  Still and fiery, our stories carry on, repeated in magic places

 

Léonie Scott-Matthews, the theatrical impresario of Hampstead village

Oriel Place, Heath Street, The Moon at Night, Pentameters for over 50 years

A warming retreat, Godfreys’ haunt, stories, tunes, plays, music, poetry

Secrets and lies, joys and treasures, from every age.  Time begins again

And spreads through these narrow roads, crooked steps, paths, snapshots 

From tiny youth to aged discovery; across our world, passing by, passing on

 

Grand doorway to the fringe
Upstairs Pentameters Theatre, Oriel Place

Oriel Place looking up to Heath Street  Pentameters on the right

 

Pilgrims come from all over the world to Hampstead

 

Some of the reasons we find so many here:

Lyndhurst Road and Rosslyn Hill. A grand recording studio for many years

This was the Rosslyn Arms, a bohemian & later ‘alternative’ haunt in the 1960s

Next door to the Rosslyn Arms, a church retreat and school

 

Well Walk Theatre

 
 

The Wells and Campden Bath and Wash Houses  Flask Walk, in use from 1888 to 1978.  Now Flats.

 

The New End Hospital was founded as a workhouse infirmary in 1869.  Hospital use until sold in 1986.  

 

Another celebration of refugees who made a home here

Mount Vernon. Physiologist/pharmacologist  Sir Henry Dale  1936 Nobel prize acetylcholine

The Clock Tower. Corner of High Street and 
Heath Street, opposite Hampstead Heath tube

 

George Romney, 1734 to 1802. Portrait Artist Muse was
Emma Hamilton Nelson’s mistress. Joshua Reynold said heretic.  
Never accepted into Royal Academy (from 1868).

 

 

Christopher

 

 

 

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3 Responses to Hampstead Spirit of Place

    1. John Betjeman would have appreciated this piece, as I did.

      Comment by John on 7 March, 2025 at 10:20 am
    2. As a former Hampstonian (alas without my own blue plaque) this (master)piece was such a joy to read! The spirit of Hampstead wonderfully summarized / captured!

      Comment by emma lumsden on 15 March, 2025 at 11:30 pm
    3. What a charming and creative guide and homage to such a special place ! From his many years of wandering around Hampstead’s many pleasures and treasures , Christopher offers us here his personal selection of observations , historical interests and savoured pleasures . I’ve long felt blessed by my access to Hampstead : all the more so now ….

      Comment by David Zigmond on 24 March, 2025 at 11:11 am

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