Musicians, actors, raconteurs, playwrights, scholars, artists
Drawn to the wells, wild heathlands, pubs, clubs, coffee houses
Plaques on almost every street; black, green, blue & white
They stare at each other, greeting in a proud celebration
‘George du Maurier lived here, 1874 to 1895’, born in France
Cartoonist and novelist; Punch said, ‘very good in parts’

Chalybeate Well, Well Walk
On the 20th December 1698 the infant Earl of Gainsborough and his guardian and mother, the Countess of Gainsborough gave six acres of land in the region of the Chalybeate Well, to be used to benefit the poor of Hampstead. The deed that transferred the land refers to “the Wells lately made there for medicinal waters”.Bottled at the Flask Pub, Flask Walk. Rivalled Tunbridge Wells. https://alondoninheritance.com/under-london/chalybeate-well-hampstead/

George DuMaurier lived here
‘Robert Louis Stevenson, 1850 – 1894’, a fine storyteller-poet
His grand house, perched in Mount Vernon, Hampstead
Roaming; Kidnapped, here briefly in London literary circles.
A start in Edinburgh, Bournemouth, Paris, to end in Samoa
Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde and A Child’s Garden of Verses
Horror and innocence, minds changing, passing through

Robert Louis Stevenson lived here. But very, very briefly.
Mount Vernon. Nearby, the more modest abode of RL Stevenson
There was Eric Blair, George Orwell, not Cleese’s Eric The Fish,
The Meaning of Life. Amazing Monty Python, started in 1969
At the Light of Kashmir; Chapman, Cleese, Idle, Jones & Gilliam
Orwell touched down, 1934, in Warwick Mansions, Pond Street
Flew off to Spain, to fight in the civil war, Homage to Catalonia
A 1920’s Indian policeman, in 1948 he wrote to us all, the dystopian 1984

Warwick Mansions, Pond Street. Orwell stayed here in 1930s

Next Door to Warwick Mansions
Keats, high on laudanum, apothecary, physician, surgeon, Guys Hospital
Instead became a poet at age 21, said, ‘Beauty is truth, truth beauty’
Under a plum tree in, now Keats House, he wrote Ode to a Nightingale
Tubercular, pale, off to Rome with Joseph Severn, died in 1821 at only 25
Here; Sigmund Freud, Anna Freuds’ nursery, Walter Gropius, Marie Stopes,
Fry and Laurie, Liz Taylor, George Michael, Peter Cook and so many more

Snowdrops in the plum tree garden of Keats House

Keats House (formerly Wentworth Place) and Garden
Paul Robeson, American actor, singer, Show Boat, 1928, another plaque
And in the early 1930s, looking up from his house to Whitestone Pond
John Constable painted Judge’s Walk, the close high Elysium, in the 1820s
In the 19th century judges walked here, escaping Londons’ soot & grime
Below and beyond this highest London Pond, the city glittering in the dusk
On down the hill, everywhere, more labyrinthine passageways & squares

Paul Robeson could look up the steep slope to Judges Walk & Whitestone Pond





Secret passageways
New End Primary School, towering over alleyways
Christchurch, clinging to the steep hillside, bells ringing in the darkness
I walk along this path through life; nursery, school, vicarage, prayers, the end
Close by, the stark 1850s New Court, built for the servants to the wealthy
No plaque for the Sex Pistols at No. 39, a squat in the late 70s
No water, no light, cold, damp, ‘Hell on earth,’ said Johnny Rotten.
Sid Vicious, they say, carved his memorial there into the brick

Christchurch
Christchurch Nursery School. Christchurch Vicarage

New Buildings, 1870s, flats for the servants. New Court walkups

Sid Vicious was here at No. 39
York Stone mazes, cobbled streets, high walls, crooked shadows
Alleyways of Hampstead Village, crazed cottage chimneys
Bright, lit-up doors and windows, startling floodlights, watching
Canopies of flowers beckon friends at the Quaker House sanctuary
A wreath from Covid times used to hang on the door of the Hollybush Pub
And a note, ‘good health to you in these strange times.’ Strange days still.

The Quaker Meeting House. And along this road to Christchurch
Sir Henry Cole, cheering on Elm Row, 1879 – 1880’ grew the 1d post
Letters, so you’d always be in my memory, a card sent for every Christmas
In the Vale of Health, poet Tagore, 1912; Hemingway, in World War II
There’s a plaque to a boy 5 to 8 yrs old, Lord Northcliffe, 1870 – 1873,
Cycling news, popular campaigner, began Daily Mail 1896 & Mirror in 1903
And look! Still and fiery, our stories carry on, repeated in magic places
Léonie Scott-Matthews, the theatrical impresario of Hampstead village
Oriel Place, Heath Street, The Moon at Night, Pentameters for over 50 years
A warming retreat, Godfreys’ haunt, stories, tunes, plays, music, poetry
Secrets and lies, joys and treasures, from every age. Time begins again
And spreads through these narrow roads, crooked steps, paths, snapshots
From tiny youth to aged discovery; across our world, passing by, passing on

Grand doorway to the fringe
Upstairs Pentameters Theatre, Oriel Place
Oriel Place looking up to Heath Street Pentameters on the right
Pilgrims come from all over the world to Hampstead

Some of the reasons we find so many here:

Lyndhurst Road and Rosslyn Hill. A grand recording studio for many years

This was the Rosslyn Arms, a bohemian & later ‘alternative’ haunt in the 1960s
Next door to the Rosslyn Arms, a church retreat and school

Well Walk Theatre


The Wells and Campden Bath and Wash Houses Flask Walk, in use from 1888 to 1978. Now Flats.

The New End Hospital was founded as a workhouse infirmary in 1869. Hospital use until sold in 1986.

Another celebration of refugees who made a home here

Mount Vernon. Physiologist/pharmacologist Sir Henry Dale 1936 Nobel prize acetylcholine

The Clock Tower. Corner of High Street and
Heath Street, opposite Hampstead Heath tube

George Romney, 1734 to 1802. Portrait Artist Muse was
Emma Hamilton Nelson’s mistress. Joshua Reynold said heretic.
Never accepted into Royal Academy (from 1868).
Christopher
.
John Betjeman would have appreciated this piece, as I did.
Comment by John on 7 March, 2025 at 10:20 amAs a former Hampstonian (alas without my own blue plaque) this (master)piece was such a joy to read! The spirit of Hampstead wonderfully summarized / captured!
Comment by emma lumsden on 15 March, 2025 at 11:30 pmWhat a charming and creative guide and homage to such a special place ! From his many years of wandering around Hampstead’s many pleasures and treasures , Christopher offers us here his personal selection of observations , historical interests and savoured pleasures . I’ve long felt blessed by my access to Hampstead : all the more so now ….
Comment by David Zigmond on 24 March, 2025 at 11:11 am